Worth a Shot

There’s something brand new on the spirits menu at the Plow & Angel Speakeasy: the San Ysidro’s Ranch’s very first proprietary tequila.

The news broke during a sexy invite-only garden fête last month that doubled as the Ranch’s first-ever “owned” event – hosted by the property, on the property. Set on the resort’s famous manicured gardens, and timed in tandem with dusk, it treated the eclectic mix of well-heeled guests to personalized portraits by fashion sketch artist Kelly Maryanski, provocative dancing curated by celeb choreographer Hannah Douglass, and a bevy of tray-borne gourmet bites from the Stonehouse kitchen.

But the real star was the special-edition Ty Warner Reserve, a blanco tequila produced by the ultra-premium tequila brand, Código 1530. Guests were offered generous pours for singular sipping, as well as a variety of blanco-based handcrafted cocktails. Tequila-infused cotton candy was flowing all night, too.

“We started talking about this back in December,” says SYR Food-and-Beverage Director Andrew Caine. “We thought, ‘Wouldn’t it be great if we had our own branded spirit?’”

The hunt for a super high-end producer with whom to partner soon led the Ranch team to Código 1530, a top-tier brand based in the town of Amatitán, in the Mexican state of Jalisco. The “1530” pays tribute to the year that Spanish conquistadores founded the town, set 20 miles northwest of Guadalajara; the “Código” refers to the longstanding customs, or codes, that guide the crafting of this upscale spirit. Código 1530 is known among tequila collectors for the ultra-purified water, the higher-than-average volume of agave, and the top-secret family recipe that have been used to make it for generations.

“We were really impressed by their attention to detail, which is synonymous with what we always strive to do here,” says Mr. Caine, who flew with a small team from the San Ysidro Ranch down to Amatitán in May. “We sorted through the agave fields, we saw how plants are processed, we toured the distillery – it’s a tiny building, just two fermentation tanks. And the bottling facility, super clean.

“And then there’s the team,” he continues. “A lot of individuals who work for one tequila brand, like Patron or Don Julio or Herradura – they also work for competitor brands. But everyone working for Código, from the fields to the distillery to even the sales offices in the U.S. – they only work for Código. We found this type of thing exciting, like there was clear brand synergy there. It just felt like a natural pairing.”

Código 1530 uses myriad previously used oak barrels to rest or age their tequilas, barrels that once contained Sherry, Madeira, and Napa Valley cabernet. The Ty Warner Reserve rested in French oak barrels where sauvignon blanc once fermented – a three-month slumber that, according to Mr. Caine, “imparted unique flavor, and even a slight golden hue, which added that extra layer and made it so approachable.”

This writer found the tequila to exhibit soft herbal aromas, nice acidity, a clean mouth feel and a smooth finish. Complex enough to intrigue tequila buffs, like my wife; silky and subtle enough to make the occasional tequila drinker, like me, ask to sip another shot.

The Ty Warner Reserve was a one-barrel collaboration, the equivalent of 111 bottles. As of last week, guests of the San Ysidro Ranch are able to access it across the property, including in-room dining and the Stonehouse Restaurant. But its permanent home, while it lasts, is the Plow & Angel Speakeasy, where it’s being poured by the ounce and playing a starring role in several new craft cocktails. The “De La Tierra,” this writer’s favorite for the spicy kick it delivers, blends the Ty Warner Reserve with Green Chartreuse and habanero chilis; the “Latina Daisy” includes Galiano liqueur, crème de cacao and fennel seed; and the traditional “Paloma” is enhanced with Aperol, a bit of ginger and a dash of grapefruit bitters. 

Licensing parameters prevent the Ranch from selling the Ty Warner Reserve by the bottle, although patrons can buy a bottle and have it stored at the Speakeasy for subsequent visits. Says Mr. Caine, “That holds true for any spirits we feature on property.”

This customized tequila joins two wines that also carry the private label San Ysidro Ranch branding; a pinot noir and a rosé made by Montecito resident Doug Margerum.

A rumor overheard at the garden launch party: Código 1530 may soon be announcing a reposado or añejo tequila branded for the Coral Casino, also a Ty Warner property. We’re on it.