What’s up in Honolulu and Wacky Waikiki?

Plenty, as usual, it turns out.

Before checking into my second Hawaiian hotel (one of four on my eight-night islands foray), I had a fantastic brunch/lunch at Istanbul Hawaii, a delightful Turkish restaurant opened five years ago in the Kamake’e Corridor of Ward Village. Turkish native Chef Ahu Hettema, along with her mother Nili Yildirim (who was in Turkey at the time of my visit), and with help from Ahu’s husband, have created a stunning, colorful, bustling dining option in an unfamiliar (at least to me) part of Honolulu. Located across the street from Whole Foods market (and with free parking), the high-rise building where the restaurant is located also houses a hip clothing boutique and other snazzy shopping opportunities.

Interior design by Chef Ahu is a riot of color. Indoor tables are adorned with the traditional Turkish scarves that women customarily braid into their hair to alert the opposite sex they are ready to date. Even the chandeliers are designed and constructed by talented Ahu, a fine artist who paints with spices. The small bar and visible bustling kitchen, lined with colorful spices and ceramic tagine pots, add to the festive atmosphere. Dishes are served on traditional copper platters; Chef Ahu is in the process of working with a ceramicist to design custom plates. 

Sunday brunch/lunch with three friends was a great choice, as the menu begs for sharing. We began with the mezze plate – an array of tasting dips served with fresh toasted pita that included house made hummus, baba ganoush and olives, and an amazing lentil soup. My longtime artist friend Masami Teraoka and I shared a whole Mediterranean branzino (flown in twice weekly) served with a Greek salad of Maui onions and tomatoes; his daughter Eve and her mom Lynda went for the weekend brunch items (crunchy waffles and French toast with fruit). Everything was delicious and finger licking good. We attempted, with the chef’s help, to read our coffee grounds fortune – Turkish coffee and caffeine-free “coffee” made from roasted date pits was a wonderful discovery. Turkish desserts included a fantastic, not-overly sweet baklava, halvah, hatay künefe (chef’s fave) made with cheese, clotted cream, pistachios and crispy filo noodles and a new dessert the chef was testing, a sort of sticky rice pudding that also won everyone’s approval. I am only sorry I didn’t get to try the lamb tagine. Beef eaters take note: the holy cow is aged onsite for over 100 days. Istanbul Hawaii is an ethnic sparkling gem worth seeking out.

Kaimana Beach Hotel – Waikiki 

My friends dropped me off at the beachfront Kaimana Beach Hotel (the former New Otani that opened in 1963). Under new local ownership for the past five years, the 122-room, nine story hotel boasts a beachy-cool vibe. The location, at the far quieter end of Waikiki (although this is not a quiet hotel) is superb. The popular onsite restaurant, Hau Tree, is one of just a few Honolulu restaurants (like Duke’s of Hawai’i) that sits at the sand’s edge. The pastas stand out here, as do lamb chops, the coconut cake, and house made ice cream and sorbets.

Stunning ocean views – from my corner 5th floor room overlooking the beach to the historic (long shuttered) Natatorium and the curving coastline of Waikiki – had me “oohing and awing.” I signed up for a free, stand-up paddleboard lesson the next morning – after the partial solar eclipse. My SUP lesson was basic, but sufficient for this first-timer. I hauled my board and paddle out into the aquamarine-colored waters of popular Kaimana beach. Nearby swimmers warned me to watch the rocks, so my paddle-out was more of a sit-down than a stand-up affair – enjoyable, just the same. It was here, talking to a local also enjoying the water, that I learned about the fascinating “Natatorium.” The saltwater swimming pool on the beach of Waikiki once served as “a living memorial for people to take part in its long history of indigenous swimming traditions and Olympic legacy.” Dedicated in 1927, to honor 10,000 citizens of Hawai’i who served in World War I, The Natatorium was conceived as more than a war memorial, according to its website. Designed by renowned architect Lewis Hobart, The Natatorium’s grand Beaux-Arts archway leads to its ocean-water swim basin. The stunning architectural wonder includes bleachers and bathhouses, friezes, pediments, statuary, and cornices. Sadly, one of only a few ocean-water natatoriums left in the world – the only one of its kind in the United States – is closed to the public. Johnny Weissmuller once performed there, but the place has been mired in government red tape for years.

Speaking of history, hotel luau shows can be hokey. I hadn’t been to one of Hawaii’s touristy luau dinners for decades. Talented Oahu ceramicist Lynda Hess drove over from her east side home to join me. We took a leisurely stroll along Waikiki’s main drag before finding the Waikiki Beach Marriott (there are several Marriott hotels in the area) where we enjoyed a delicious and filling buffet dinner that included poi and kalua pig while watching and filming amazing performances by the band, singers, and hardworking dancers – from hula hands and swaying hips to intense dances from throughout Polynesia. A highlight was meeting a delightful family of four from Mill Valley with two charming young sons (5 and 7). Watching the rapture on Paolo and his little brother’s mesmerized faces as World FireKnife Champions – including a hair-raising live fire performance by an 11-year-old boy/keiki – topped off the buffet meal and drinks and was worth the price of admission. Not only did the performers dance their you-know-what’s off – they draw Sharpie pen tattoos and made wrist leis for guests prior to their three-hour dinner show and even graciously posed with guests for photos after the show.  

The Details

Kaimana Beach Hotel – Beachfront high-rise on a fantastic local’s beach. Free activities include SUP and surf lessons (free surfboards), yoga on the beach, and more. Fun shop with cool gear, barista coffee bar and fresh pastries on site (Provisions). Two awesome “aunties” – Lani and Tina – run the jammed-packed Russell’s Convenience Store with greeting and postcards, stamps, pre-packaged food (yummy salads), fun coconut shell bras for $5, and more. I toured one of several spacious penthouse suites, a relative bargain at $1,499. Regular room rates hover (depending on season and capacity) at around $250 making this one of Waikiki’s more affordable on-the-beach options. https://www.kaimana.com/

Istanbul Hawaii – Tasty Turkish cuisine on Oahu. www.istanbulhawaii.com

Pā‘ina Waikīkī, The Lū‘au – Launched summer 2023, The Lū‘au at Waikīkī Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, produced by Hawaii’s largest, longest-running entertainment company (Tihati Productions), runs Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday & Sunday, 5-8 pm. Prices start at $125 for the three-hour performance, dinner, and drinks. www.painawaikiki.com

Olay’s Thai Lao Cuisine – Highly recommended by Banning, Kaimana Beach Hotel front desk’s team member. www.olaysthaihawaii.com