From Zero to Zen in an Hour: A Sublime Time at Nobu Ryokan in Malibu

I’ve always wanted to visit Japan – a country that recently reopened to tourism. In the meantime, I thought I might approximate a Zen-like trip to Japan along the coast of California… just an hour’s drive away.

These days, you can go throw a dart just about anywhere on the tourism planet map and visit a Nobu restaurant and/or hotel. Back in the 1980s, I frequented the original Nobu restaurant on La Cienega Blvd in Los Angeles. I doubt Nobu Matsuhisa imagined his tiny Japanese restaurant would morph into a global endeavor thanks to teaming up with actor Robert De Niro and other investor/owners. 

When I was offered the chance to spend the night at the Nobu Ryokan, a small Japanese-style inn located on the beach in Malibu, I jumped. I also wanted to try Nobu restaurant (the two entities are under different ownership) located just a stone’s throw away.

I have one word for my 24-hour stay at Nobu Ryokan Malibu: sublime (with a few caveats).

Even the short drive down was transcendent. I took the Las Posas Road exit, that route fringed by vast, bright green farm fields edging soft brown hills that conjure “old” California. Before turning on to the Pacific Coast Highway, almost on cue, my radio went from news of wars to terrific jazz as soon as I hit Point Mugu. The coastline drive was stunning and relaxing, with the Pacific to my right, sand dunes and native landscapes to my left. I stopped off at the Malibu Country Mart to window-shop before moseying to Nobu Ryokan. Only I missed the turn into the hotel on PCH. The hotel is SO discreet that I drove right past it and ended up next door, in the shared parking lot of the exclusive, member-only, “Little Beach House” Soho Club and Nobu restaurant. A few turnarounds and I parked in front of the handsome building wondering how I would get through the wooden barriers. Then, as if by magic, the beautiful large wooden gates slowly opened, and I was cheerfully welcomed by the accommodating and polite staff. I was handed a warm washcloth to clean my hands and face, then showed around the small, tranquil property. Any PCH turnround stress was immediately melted away by the soothing sounds and sights of a waterfall and the lush curving stone paths that led to my room.

My oceanfront room, named “Yuhi” (which has several meanings: sun, sunlight, positive, male, daytime) was totally Shibui – a study in simple, unobtrusive, subtle beauty – forged of hardwoods and decorated in neutral tones perched on exclusive Carbon Beach. A small deck with two lounge chairs, an umbrella and sunscreen, was the perfect sunrise/sunset/anytime spot.

The tide was out when I arrived. I watched a few walkers enjoying late afternoon strolls and a lone SUP paddleboarder. I admired the soaring high wooden ceilings, plopped onto the king size bed made with what felt like the world’s softest sheets. On the tansu-style bedside table sat a beautiful book titled The Way of the Japanese Bath – a perfect intro to the perfectly designed bathroom with a short, steep-sided wooden Japanese soaking tub.

I discovered a pair of earplugs in the drawer in the event the waves were too loud at night (“Now that’s a high-class problem!” quipped a friend). An iPad provided contact with the concierge, housekeeping, control of the window shades, bedside Japanese-style wood-and-rice-paper lights, the Nobu room service menu and more, leaving little room for unwanted interruptions. It also controls the TV, lest you interrupt the calm.

My bag arrived in the room before I did, my credit card was “swiped” by one of the guest services gentlemen in-room, and seconds later a lovely Japanese pot of green tea and slices of a light matcha cake arrived as a welcome and delicious amenity. (The mini bar was filled with gratis treats.)

I hated to mess up this lovely room, where I listened to the sound of the waves outside my window along with occasional seagulls squawking. It felt almost sacrilegious to turn on the large screen television over the fireplace. Being a news junkie, I could use a 24-hour break from the depressing news cycle to clear my head.

I was looking forward to dinner – Nobu Restaurant is just two doors away and the restaurant also provides breakfast, lunch, snacks and dinner room service for hotel guests. I walked over for my 7 pm reservation. Since I was dining alone, I was seated at the sushi bar and welcomed with loud cheers (as all guests are) by the hard-working team of sushi chefs and servers.

The food was fantastic: I ordered the omakase ($125 – the chef chooses the dishes with any dietary restrictions noted). It began with a “sensei” gift from the master chef as a thank you for giving him the reins to design my meal: a fresh, tasty, salty, and slightly sweet veggie norimaki handroll with sesame paste that was the perfect “palate opener.” I ordered a super smooth cold sake suggested by the waiter that arrived in an icy silver tea pot. I could have stopped at the first course and been happy, a yellowtail tartare topped with caviar in a wasabi sauce that was as beautiful visually as it was to savor. The delectable dish was presented in nesting green glass bowls on ice decorated with a pretty ribbon and purple pansy flower. It appeared there was nowhere to go but down after those bites, but I was wowed once again by the explosive flavors of thin halibut slices in a Japanese citrus/cilantro/hydra (hot chili) soy sauce topped with an edible shiso “mint” flower. Cooked dishes included a fine Szechuan-rubbed wild salmon over Brussels sprouts in a ricotta coulis, followed by grilled bay scallops with crispy onion in a white truffle sage/thyme butter sauce. I asked to take my dessert to go – a lovely (what I assumed was) persimmon cake with walnuts and vanilla ice cream in hand that made it back intact to be enjoyed in the quietude of my lodging. If you can get a reservation, it’s worth the drive from our part. But if you prefer quiet to bustle, go for lunch, and make sure you can sit out on the oceanfront deck where the tunes and crowd noise are more subdued. 

The Next Morning

As it turned out, I did need the earplugs during dreamtime, as the ocean waves pounded throughout the night and into the morning. With high tide in full swing when I awoke, my room now felt like a ship, with the ocean waters swirling below the pylons that supported my abode. Blackout shades could be maneuvered to block the blinding sunlight refractions from the water’s surface as shorebirds appeared almost within reach at sunrise.

Horizon Glow Ritual Soak

I had been instructed to overfill and allow the short, steep-sided wooden Japanese soaking tub to “overflow.” Inspired by the Japanese ofuroba, the bathroom is designed as a wet room. 

I felt a bit saudade being here on my own, but a small, printed sign on a black stone on the soaking tub cheered me up. It read: “You are so loved” with instructions for a “horizon glow ritual soak to achieve the ultimate Zen vibes.” 

“Breathe in the aromatic bouquet of citrus and jasmine to fill yourself with gratitude because you ARE so loved. Sprinkle desired amount in a warm bath and take yourself from zero to Zen,” read the card which also instructed me to take a shower before slowly submerging myself into the wooden tub, which I am happy to report is very easy to climb in and out of (unlike those huge freestanding white bathtubs in some resorts). I found myself hard-pressed to describe the sense of calm and well-being I felt while luxuriating in the heavenly bath salts-infused warm waters, sunlight from the skylight filtering softly into the high ceiling bathroom. I was blissed out and happy to cocoon back in my bed for a cooldown wrapped in one of the inn’s beautiful linen yukata with obi robes. I had achieved a “Zen” morning – and it was time for breakfast before my noon checkout.

I ordered room service breakfast via the in-room iPad: a delish avocado toast with poached eggs and a fruit plate – generous servings of both and a nice ending to my stay as the hypnotic rhythm of the sea continued the Zen-like vibe. A last lounge on the deck – watching the sandpipers and surfers in the distance on a perfect 73-degree November late morning. The gods were smiling on me, and for once I didn’t want to leave. I wanted to savor every last second of the glorious morning.

If I were a zillionaire, I’d check in for a month. I’d meditate and write poetry and short stories in this room with the ever-changing view to the sea. If I’d never seen the ocean before, I’d save my pennies for an overnight stay. If I was getting married, I’d spend my honeymoon night in this very special property that I would highly recommend for a fabulously romantic getaway or special occasion. The discretion of the staff also makes this a perfect (and I am guessing also a very popular) trysting spot. 

Now, whenever I drive past the Nobu Ryokan that I buzzed past on the PCH, I will look at it fondly and with deep appreciation that I was afforded the opportunity to pass beyond the wooden gates. Although it was a solo journey, please don’t think poorly of me for wishing otherwise, as some places are so special that they are best shared with friends or lovers. Nobu Ryokan Malibu is one of them. However, this time I had only my own good company to enjoy – and enjoy I did.

Nobu Ryokan Malibu – There is a communal patio at the 16-room “adult oriented” inn – although I’d guess most guests come for the privacy at this discreet getaway. Unfortunately, the small oceanfront pool is not available for swimming. The city of Malibu has been “slow” (to say the least) in issuing the permit – it’s been seven years in the works. While rooms rates at Nobu hotels are wildly divergent across the globe – I found at room at Nobu Barcelona for $225/night; the Malibu property is a staggering $2,000 nightly rate (plus 15% tax). That’s a lot of moolah to slumber by the sea. Is it worth it? Depends on whether you have a lot of disposable income or feel it’s worth the splurge for a special occasion. Up north, Nobu in Palo Alto has more palatable rates.

22752 Pacific Coast Highway, Malibu 
(310) 317-3000
Noburyokanmalibu.com

Nobu Restaurant – Reservations are required and not easy to obtain and they only book up to 30 days in advance. www.noburestaurants.com 

Malibu Things to Do – There are a few distractions if you dare leave your sublime lodging (or go pre or post a stay): art viewing at The Getty Villa (free by appointment; $20 parking fee); Frederick Weisman Museum of Art at Pepperdine University (free); a guided tour of the historic Adamson House with its stunning Catalina tiles (Adults/$7, 6-17/$2, 5 and under free); shopping at The Malibu Country Mart; a stroll down the Malibu Pier. Of course, what Malibu is most famous for is its lovely beaches, surf spots and star gazing (both real and Hollywood), all free and there’s the Malibu Lagoon for a walk and/or birdwatching.