Mazatlán, Mexico: Part One Land of the Deer and a Meal of My Dreams
Settled in 1531, historic Mazatlán’s nicknames include “Pacific Pearl” and “Fish Land.” But the beautiful name is actually Nahuatl (an indigenous language still spoken by 1.5 million people today) for “place of the deer.” On our flight’s landing approach to Mazatlán, the plane traveled south of the city before circling back around to land, revealing stunning geography. The maze of inlets, few patterns of civilization, and verdant agricultural land made it easy to imagine how deer once roamed here. I exited the sold-out flight and stepped out onto the stairs and tarmac, where I was immediately embraced by the warm, humid afternoon air and familiar aroma of Mexico.
I arrived in Mazatlán at 1 pm – a city I knew little about – to experience Day of the Dead and All Souls Day in this Pacific coastal city of some half a million people in the state of Sinaloa. Yes, that state. A name that is well-known to anyone who watches the news thanks to the Sinaloa cartel. However, all was tranquillo – plus everyone’s luggage arrived in baggage claim faster than anyone could remember. I’d landed safely and I had a list of things I wanted to do, including a first meal somewhere really, really good.
My list also included a visit to the opera house, a local cemetery, as well as the new aquarium, and museum of art. As a result of Germans who settled here, banda (loud oompah-pah Mexican music mostly made up of brass wind instruments and percussion) is native to the region (German immigrants also founded Pacifico beer). Don’t be surprised to come across such a band striking up on the beach at sunset – or in the historic main square or zocalo.
A friend had emailed me before I left: “Maybe you will meet the man of your dreams – or have the meal of your dreams.” I decided to kick off my visit with a late Sunday lunch at Atol, a restaurant with a five-star rating on Yelp. I’d aim for at least one of my friend’s good wishes!
The hotel driver met me at the airport and transferred myself and other guests in an airconditioned van to our hotel set on the beach – Pueblo Bonito Mazatlán. I raced to my room, admired the gorgeous view of the sea fringed by palm trees from the third-floor patio, and dashed back downstairs to meet a friend to hail one of the local souped-up golf carts called a “pulmonia” (invented here) for our open-air ride along the Malecón to make our 3 pm reservation at Atol.
On our open-air ride, I was immediately smitten with seaside Mazatlán. Despite the city being a “Level 4” on the State Department watchlist of places not to visit, and a popular cruise ship stop, the ride revealed a beachside region that was a delightful mix of charming and tacky. I passed gritty, pretty, historic, colorful, drab, falling apart, and new buildings rising. What wasn’t there to like? Little seafood shacks lined the sand along the Malecón selling fish tacos and the historic opera house with a storied past beckoned. This is the real Mexico – not one that has been sanitized for tourists, one filled with a mix of locals and Mexican tourists also there for the big holiday week.
First Meal of Mazatlán
Atol, which opened just a little over a year ago, is named for a traditional corn drink popular on Day of the Dead. A discreet sign hangs over the door and the building’s exterior, painted black, fronts a building that was a former school and foundation. We buzzed for entrance and were warmly welcomed to the small, but stylish, restaurant by the owner’s mother.
Chef Daniel Bernal Vega has traveled the globe – even working in Egypt – but he creates regional Mexican dishes with his own artistic flair culled from his travels throughout the country: Oaxaca, Yucatan, and his native Culiacán, Sinaloa. They are as delicious as they are picture worthy – layers of flavors laboriously created with – dare I say it? – love, dedication, and deliciousness. Sit at the bar and you will be treated to explanations from Chef/Owner Daniel as he works away with one helper/sous-chef. Daniel’s mother (he is the youngest of five children) not only welcomes guests but also lends a hand with the dishes and did the calculations on our extremely reasonable bill.
I devoured the following from the “Menú Degustación”: Bolita istemeña, a yummy ball of double cream cheese placed atop a peanut mole, with smoked plantain on top and a dusting of pumpkin flower; an amazing cochinita pibil (as good as, if not better than, any of the slow-roasted pork wrapped in a banana leaf that I’ve had in the Yucatan); a gorgeous tamal made from local fermented masa (with pork fat and stock) topped with crema de requesón, a Mexican ricotta from a small town nearby and a bit of dried grasshopper on top for crunch; and a molote de lengua, beef tongue atop a chocolate mole with crema de huitlacoche (one of my fav Mexican specialties – a type of corn mold), was also outstanding. All are served in beautiful Mexican pottery dishware made especially for the restaurant by Uriel Rodriguez of Alma de Barro in Puebla; the amazing corn tortillas are made before your eyes. Daniel, a married father of two young girls, makes a crazy good, multi-layered 60-ingredient Oaxacan style mole; his guava mole is also outta sight and spoon worthy as well. A filling meal for two – including a chardonnay/chenin blanc blend from Valle de Guadalupe’s Monte Xanic and a Pacifico cerveza served in a wine glass was a bargain at just a smidgen over $50. Atol is also open for breakfast – if I lived here, I’d probably stop here weekly for breakfast, lunch, and/or dinner.
The bar was set high for the week ahead after my happy dining discovery – and I still had a list to cross off.
Tune in next week for Mazatlán highlights and gems, in Part Two of my Travel Buzz report!
Getting There: I flew Alaska Airlines nonstop from LAX-MZT in just a little over two hours.
Where to Stay: There’s no shortage or variety of Mexican resorts to choose from in this vast country – from chic boutique city hotels to five-star resort/spas, to all-inclusive resorts which often appeal to families. I spent five nights at the all-inclusive Pueblo Bonito Mazatlán, the original and first of the hotel group’s half a dozen resorts, located on a beach in an area called the Golden Zone. There are four Pueblo Bonito properties in Cabo San Lucas, two in Mazatlán, and a new luxury hotel is scheduled to open in San Miguel de Allende in May 2024. Set on a crescent-shaped beach, many of Pueblo Bonito Mazatlán’s spacious and tastefully furnished 248 guest rooms (all have undergone a recent $27 million dollar renovation/refresh) have magical sunset views through waving palm trees. The excellent, super-friendly staff (Pueblo Bonito excels in hiring wonderful people) attended to all needs – accompanied by beautiful smiles. During my visit in late October, the Pacific was as warm as bath water and the crowd (during Day of the Dead holidays) leaned towards Mexican families. This is an active, festive destination with pool games (like Bingo) during afternoon siesta hours and an excellent breakfast buffet that includes custom order omelets, chilaquiles, fresh fruit galore, and lots more. I also visited the sister property during my stay, Pueblo Bonito Emerald Bay, a popular timeshare property and resort with villas, about half an hour away and set on verdant grounds, for an excellent spa treatment.
Atol:Traditional menu reflecting different regions of Mexico that changes every two weeks/seasonally. Dishes range from $4 to $13. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner Wednesday to Sunday. Book online or via Whatsapp.
21 de Marzo 1414, Centro, 82000 Mazatlán, Sinaloa
www.atolmexico.com
Phone: 667 144 1192
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